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Dr. FLK
08-09-2010, 10:28 AM
I'm getting ready to paint out master bathroom. It has cathedral ceilings. And at the highest point (of course) the dry wall tape is peeling. So, I need to remove, replace, and cover. The problem is...that highest point is directly above a shower stall. I don't want to put the ladder in the stall to avoid cracking fiberglass base. But, I can't put it outside of the stall and reach the corner because the angle would be too sharp.

So experts...how do I do this?

I've considered putting down plywood over the fiberglass base, and putting the ladder on the base. But, the base is not flat (for drainage), so I'm afraid I will be putting too much pressure around the edges of the fiberglass base.

AgentOrange
08-09-2010, 11:12 AM
I'm getting ready to paint out master bathroom. It has cathedral ceilings. And at the highest point (of course) the dry wall tape is peeling. So, I need to remove, replace, and cover. The problem is...that highest point is directly above a shower stall. I don't want to put the ladder in the stall to avoid cracking fiberglass base. But, I can't put it outside of the stall and reach the corner because the angle would be too sharp.

So experts...how do I do this?

I've considered putting down plywood over the fiberglass base, and putting the ladder on the base. But, the base is not flat (for drainage), so I'm afraid I will be putting too much pressure around the edges of the fiberglass base.

I have put ladders on top of non-slick drop cloths right on the shower pan before. If you have a square piece of ply, that would work as well. It should make it so the area you are covering is all on the same pitch and thus the plywood will be flat. The only way you are cracking that shower pan is if you fall off the ladder and land on the pan. There should be some reinforcement under the pan, but if it is original to the house that might not be the case.

Dr. FLK
08-09-2010, 11:17 AM
I have put ladders on top of non-slick drop cloths right on the shower pan before. If you have a square piece of ply, that would work as well. It should make it so the area you are covering is all on the same pitch and thus the plywood will be flat. The only way you are cracking that shower pan is if you fall off the ladder and land on the pan. There should be some reinforcement under the pan, but if it is original to the house that might not be the case.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of putting something between the ladder and pan (like drop cloth?) to take up that space and distribute the weight. You don't think that's necessary?

It is the original to the house (house new in '94).

AgentOrange
08-09-2010, 11:18 AM
Thanks for the info. I was thinking of putting something between the ladder and pan (like drop cloth?) to take up that space and distribute the weight. You don't think that's necessary?

It is the original to the house (house new in '94).

Put a drop cloth down. I would make sure the bottom is non slip. If the bottom doesn't have the non-slip on it, you might fall of the ladder.

Dipper9
08-10-2010, 03:34 PM
I am curiously and patiently awaiting the story of FLK's trip to the emergency room! ;)

scOtt
08-10-2010, 04:22 PM
I am curiously and patiently awaiting the story of FLK's trip to the emergency room! ;)

I would have just hired someone, but then I'm afraid of heights.

Dr. FLK
08-11-2010, 08:24 AM
I am curiously and patiently awaiting the story of FLK's trip to the emergency room! ;)

You doubt my home improvement skills?;)

paulcoates
08-11-2010, 10:16 AM
Here is my thinking.

You stand on 2 feet. The ladder has 4. So the weight should be more evenly distributed and therefore you should not crack the pan simply because of distribution

Dr. FLK
08-11-2010, 03:14 PM
Here is my thinking.

You stand on 2 feet. The ladder has 4. So the weight should be more evenly distributed and therefore you should not crack the pan simply because of distribution

The ladder will only have 2 feet - extension ladder - and those feet are smaller than my feet.

paulcoates
08-11-2010, 07:04 PM
The ladder will only have 2 feet - extension ladder - and those feet are smaller than my feet.

ok, so go buy yourself two pieces of styrofoam and cut an insert in it. Styrofoam is pretty sturdy and it should provide you a broad base for weight dispersal

Dr. FLK
08-12-2010, 12:56 PM
ok, so go buy yourself two pieces of styrofoam and cut an insert in it. Styrofoam is pretty sturdy and it should provide you a broad base for weight dispersal

That's a lot easier than my "put ladder on a hovercraft" solution. :D

AgentOrange
08-12-2010, 12:58 PM
You really don't need to go through all that trouble man. I remodeled bathrooms for a living.

To each his own though.

Dr. FLK
08-13-2010, 11:03 AM
You really don't need to go through all that trouble man. I remodeled bathrooms for a living.

To each his own though.

Past tense? Are you out of the remodeling biz?

AgentOrange
08-13-2010, 12:01 PM
Past tense? Are you out of the remodeling biz?

Yeah, I don't work for a remodeling company anymore. I am trying to use my degree and there were limited opportunities there.

AgentOrange
08-27-2010, 09:07 AM
How did this turn out?

Dipper9
08-27-2010, 09:11 AM
How did this turn out?

Like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca9GuwuOVZc&feature=related

AgentOrange
08-27-2010, 09:12 AM
Like this...

<object style="height: 344px; width: 425px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Yil2jWQ5Oqg?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Yil2jWQ5Oqg?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></object>

Good try Dip. Almost had it there.

Dr. FLK
08-30-2010, 07:30 AM
Like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca9GuwuOVZc&feature=related

Ha!

I actually haven't started yet. Between vacations and time wasting, I just haven't gotten around to it. A few other chores have been moved to a higher priority on my list...but it's coming...if I fall through the floor, I'll be calling Dip for help.

allstar1579
08-30-2010, 10:39 AM
Any tips on the finishing part? I can handle framing and hanging drywall and taping seams, but I am HORRIBLE at the last part. Putting up one wall and adding a closet to make a new bedroom for the new baby. Crunch time now since I now have less than 4 weeks to finish.

AgentOrange
08-30-2010, 10:42 AM
Any tips on the finishing part? I can handle framing and hanging drywall and taping seams, but I am HORRIBLE at the last part. Putting up one wall and adding a closet to make a new bedroom for the new baby. Crunch time now since I now have less than 4 weeks to finish.

Use bucket mud vs easy sand (20, 45, 90). It is all about consistency with the pressure you use the knife. Don't be afraid to put too much on, you can sand it off (even though it sucks). Close your eyes when you run your hand over the area you are testing for smoothness, it will help you determine if it is ready for paint. You can always touch up after you prime.

allstar1579
08-31-2010, 08:38 PM
Use bucket mud vs easy sand (20, 45, 90). It is all about consistency with the pressure you use the knife. Don't be afraid to put too much on, you can sand it off (even though it sucks). Close your eyes when you run your hand over the area you are testing for smoothness, it will help you determine if it is ready for paint. You can always touch up after you prime.

Awesome, thanks man!

ScottieBaseball
09-01-2010, 12:03 PM
Use bucket mud vs easy sand (20, 45, 90). It is all about consistency with the pressure you use the knife. Don't be afraid to put too much on, you can sand it off (even though it sucks). Close your eyes when you run your hand over the area you are testing for smoothness, it will help you determine if it is ready for paint. You can always touch up after you prime.

This.

In my experience, anything but all-purpose joint compound is a PITA to work with. Also, you should keep anything with the words "light weight" or "fast-drying" off your job.

And AO's right (duh?!?!)...don't be bashful with putting too much on. It will add tons of sanding (and strain on your hand/wrist/elbow), but it's better to have more to work with so you can feather out any areas that need it.

Last but not least...don't make yourself crazy over the finishing. There were areas in the bathroom that was my first drywall job that I noticed every day that I did a bad sanding job, but I had to point them out to everyone else. In other words, unless it's a disaster, only you will notice the slight imperfections. ;)

allstar1579
09-01-2010, 06:57 PM
This.

In my experience, anything but all-purpose joint compound is a PITA to work with. Also, you should keep anything with the words "light weight" or "fast-drying" off your job.

And AO's right (duh?!?!)...don't be bashful with putting too much on. It will add tons of sanding (and strain on your hand/wrist/elbow), but it's better to have more to work with so you can feather out any areas that need it.

Last but not least...don't make yourself crazy over the finishing. There were areas in the bathroom that was my first drywall job that I noticed every day that I did a bad sanding job, but I had to point them out to everyone else. In other words, unless it's a disaster, only you will notice the slight imperfections. ;)

Cool, thanks so much for the feedback, I'm getting ready to dive into it tonight. Have a little more framing to finish and then I'll be finishing the drywall tomorrow night. Thanks again guys!

Dr. FLK
09-02-2010, 07:59 AM
The project began yesterday. I removed the old tape that was loose, replaced it with new tape, and put on the first coat of compound. I hate taping corners. Whenever I work on one wall, I mess up the compound I had just put on the other wall...and I never seem to get a nice looking corner. But, as Scottie said, most people don't really notice at the end. And, luckily for me, this corner is ~20' off the ground and above a shower stall. So, unless we have visitors who stand in out shower and stare up at the corner with binoculars, I should be OK.

Now I just have to sand, compound, dry, repeat until I'm pleased with it...

gallden
09-02-2010, 04:43 PM
We ALWAYS use easysand 20, if you can't keep up with the 20 use 45. Will save you loads of time.

Dr. FLK
09-04-2010, 02:35 PM
It's getting close to finished...just some more fine tuning and sanding. And I have yet to fall through the floor, so all is well (so far).

Dipper9
09-08-2010, 07:46 AM
It's getting close to finished...just some more fine tuning and sanding. And I have yet to fall through the floor, so all is well (so far).

Looks great FLK! :D

http://uglyhousephotos.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/081030g.jpg

Dr. FLK
09-08-2010, 10:51 AM
Looks great FLK! :D

http://uglyhousephotos.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/081030g.jpg

You should have seen the before picture...It was hard work convince Mrs. FLK that I had done a good job...

"No honey...you see...look much easier we can access the plumbing now!"

AgentOrange
09-08-2010, 11:17 AM
We ALWAYS use easysand 20, if you can't keep up with the 20 use 45. Will save you loads of time.

I don't like easysand for people who don't normally do this type of work. It is harder to work with.

ScottieBaseball
09-09-2010, 10:53 AM
I don't like easysand for people who don't normally do this type of work. It is harder to work with.

How so? I don't know that I'd ever veer from All-Purpose SheetRock brand, but I'm curious.