+ Reply to Thread
Results 16 to 30 of 30
Thread: Dry Wall Work Question
-
08-27-2010 09:11 AM #16
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Perry Hall
- Posts
- 18,006
Like this...
Originally Posted by AgentOrange
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca9Gu...eature=related
-
08-27-2010 09:12 AM #17
- Join Date
- Mar 2004
- Location
- Pasadena MD
- Posts
- 10,559
Good try Dip. Almost had it there. Originally Posted by Dipper9
-
08-30-2010 07:30 AM #18
- Join Date
- Dec 2003
- Location
- Ellicott City, MD
- Posts
- 13,298
Ha! Originally Posted by Dipper9
I actually haven't started yet. Between vacations and time wasting, I just haven't gotten around to it. A few other chores have been moved to a higher priority on my list...but it's coming...if I fall through the floor, I'll be calling Dip for help.
-
08-30-2010 10:39 AM #19
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Lanham, MD
- Posts
- 9,657
Any tips on the finishing part? I can handle framing and hanging drywall and taping seams, but I am HORRIBLE at the last part. Putting up one wall and adding a closet to make a new bedroom for the new baby. Crunch time now since I now have less than 4 weeks to finish.
-
08-30-2010 10:42 AM #20
- Join Date
- Mar 2004
- Location
- Pasadena MD
- Posts
- 10,559
Use bucket mud vs easy sand (20, 45, 90). It is all about consistency with the pressure you use the knife. Don't be afraid to put too much on, you can sand it off (even though it sucks). Close your eyes when you run your hand over the area you are testing for smoothness, it will help you determine if it is ready for paint. You can always touch up after you prime. Originally Posted by allstar1579
-
08-31-2010 08:38 PM #21
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Lanham, MD
- Posts
- 9,657
Awesome, thanks man! Originally Posted by AgentOrange
-
09-01-2010 12:03 PM #22
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- Hazzard County
- Posts
- 9,598
This. Originally Posted by AgentOrange
In my experience, anything but all-purpose joint compound is a PITA to work with. Also, you should keep anything with the words "light weight" or "fast-drying" off your job.
And AO's right (duh?!?!)...don't be bashful with putting too much on. It will add tons of sanding (and strain on your hand/wrist/elbow), but it's better to have more to work with so you can feather out any areas that need it.
Last but not least...don't make yourself crazy over the finishing. There were areas in the bathroom that was my first drywall job that I noticed every day that I did a bad sanding job, but I had to point them out to everyone else. In other words, unless it's a disaster, only you will notice the slight imperfections.
-
09-01-2010 06:57 PM #23
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Lanham, MD
- Posts
- 9,657
Cool, thanks so much for the feedback, I'm getting ready to dive into it tonight. Have a little more framing to finish and then I'll be finishing the drywall tomorrow night. Thanks again guys! Originally Posted by ScottieBaseball
This.
In my experience, anything but all-purpose joint compound is a PITA to work with. Also, you should keep anything with the words "light weight" or "fast-drying" off your job.
And AO's right (duh?!?!)...don't be bashful with putting too much on. It will add tons of sanding (and strain on your hand/wrist/elbow), but it's better to have more to work with so you can feather out any areas that need it.
Last but not least...don't make yourself crazy over the finishing. There were areas in the bathroom that was my first drywall job that I noticed every day that I did a bad sanding job, but I had to point them out to everyone else. In other words, unless it's a disaster, only you will notice the slight imperfections.
-
09-02-2010 07:59 AM #24
- Join Date
- Dec 2003
- Location
- Ellicott City, MD
- Posts
- 13,298
The project began yesterday. I removed the old tape that was loose, replaced it with new tape, and put on the first coat of compound. I hate taping corners. Whenever I work on one wall, I mess up the compound I had just put on the other wall...and I never seem to get a nice looking corner. But, as Scottie said, most people don't really notice at the end. And, luckily for me, this corner is ~20' off the ground and above a shower stall. So, unless we have visitors who stand in out shower and stare up at the corner with binoculars, I should be OK.
Now I just have to sand, compound, dry, repeat until I'm pleased with it...
-
09-02-2010 04:43 PM #25
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Eastern Shore, MD.
- Posts
- 3,583
We ALWAYS use easysand 20, if you can't keep up with the 20 use 45. Will save you loads of time.
-
09-04-2010 02:35 PM #26
- Join Date
- Dec 2003
- Location
- Ellicott City, MD
- Posts
- 13,298
It's getting close to finished...just some more fine tuning and sanding. And I have yet to fall through the floor, so all is well (so far).
-
09-08-2010 07:46 AM #27
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Perry Hall
- Posts
- 18,006
Looks great FLK! Originally Posted by Dr. FLK
-
09-08-2010 10:51 AM #28
- Join Date
- Dec 2003
- Location
- Ellicott City, MD
- Posts
- 13,298
You should have seen the before picture...It was hard work convince Mrs. FLK that I had done a good job... Originally Posted by Dipper9
Looks great FLK!
"No honey...you see...look much easier we can access the plumbing now!"
-
09-08-2010 11:17 AM #29
- Join Date
- Mar 2004
- Location
- Pasadena MD
- Posts
- 10,559
I don't like easysand for people who don't normally do this type of work. It is harder to work with. Originally Posted by gallden
-
09-09-2010 10:53 AM #30
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- Hazzard County
- Posts
- 9,598
How so? I don't know that I'd ever veer from All-Purpose SheetRock brand, but I'm curious. Originally Posted by AgentOrange
Reply With Quote
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
Bookmarks